In case you missed last Saturday's tasting:
Saint Romain Blanc “La Perriere” 2005: This wine announces itself with bright, fresh aromatic notes of freshly mowed hay, as well as chlorophyll. A high-toned, almost celery-like bouquet combines with wonderful minerality. The acidity is very uplifting but fully integrated into the wine. On the palate there is great stony concentration but no sense of weight at all. Lime-like fruit wraps around pebbly minerality. The flavors linger a long time on the palate… somewhat reminiscent of Corton Charlemagne. This is a brilliant wine!
Saint Romain Blanc “Sous la Velle” 2006: There is considerably more weight to this second bottling. Far richer and more youthfully opulent with notes of hay, grass and earthier elements, the wine initially seems lower in acidity due to the far greater concentration. Again, green chlorophyll notes combine with a dense more clay-like minerality. Tons of material, after some aeration there were hints of acacia honey on the palate.
Saint Romain Rouge “Sous Roche” 2004: One is immediately hit with a bouquet of meaty, red cherry fruit… explosive perfume! The aromas are on the earthier side with hints of brick and a high toned cedar note that brings Nebbiolo to mind. On the palate the wine is still tightly knit, there is a touch of green hinting at some underipe grapes, but this should resolve over time. Later on, secondary aromatics of red cherry and coffee grounds come up. Currently the wine is somewhat angular on the palate. Right now it’s all about aromatics, but with some time in bottle the rough edges will smooth out.
Saint Romain Rouge “Sous Roche” 2005: First aromatic impressions are of dark and meaty fruit (Cotes de Nuits like), roasted coffee grounds and a core of minerality down deep. After aeration the fruit gets fresher with red and black cherry and spice notes. On the palate the wine is very tight and restrained with some tannins and less fruit in evidence. Later I got deep dark plum-like fruit. The wine softened up showing more weight and texture on the nose and palate too. Overall this wine is structured for the long haul, tight, concentrated with a strong core of mineral and fruit; it’s all there, but needs lots of time to come around fully.
Showing posts with label Burgundy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Burgundy. Show all posts
Tuesday, March 18, 2008
Thursday, February 14, 2008
Jean Marc Morey Tasting Notes
Following are notes on four J.M. Morey wines tasted this past Saturday at the store...
Saint Aubin Blanc 1er Cru “Charmois” 2004: Given the overall minerality and brightness that the 2004 whites exhibit, in general, this wine was very precocious and is delicious to drink now. Very clean and precise, fresh but integrated acidity balanced by a richness and complexity that seems to speak of more lees contact. I got a hint of that hazelnut quality that I associate with Meursault. This has been and continues to be one of the classiest whites we bring in that falls outside of the pantheon of the big three, Chassagne, Puligny and Meursault. Given the prices of these better know appellations, this Saint Aubin is a great value!
Chassagne Montrachet Blanc 2004: A more powerful and concentrated wine than the above, with more pronounced minerality and less floral aromas. Morey’s style is perfectly expressed in 2004. This wine needs some time open to express itself and while the Saint Aubin is somewhat easier to drink at the moment it is clear that the Chassagne has a greater future ahead of it.
Santenay “Comme Dessus” 2004: Even though this is thought of as a relatively rustic appellation, Morey manages to render a very stylish and elegant wine. The aromas are pure light red cherry fruit with a touch of dusty earth in the background. You could sell his red wines on aromatics alone and I often say (political correctness aside) that one could be “AA” and enjoy these wines forever on the bouquet alone. So pretty!
Beaune Rouge 1er Cru “Greves” 2004: One of my very favorite wines in the entire portfolio; every time I visit Morey and taste this bottling my notes include references to pure, crystalline cherry fruit. The wine has far greater density than the Santenay and nothing short of Chambolle can surpass it in its elegance and finesse... this says more about Morey's style than the appellation. The bouquet is darker cherry than the Santenay and has many layers to it, giving a sense of depth and texture even on the nose. Flavors follow through with finer minerality woven throughout. Given 15-30 minutes open it drinks very well. Just gorgeous!
Saint Aubin Blanc 1er Cru “Charmois” 2004: Given the overall minerality and brightness that the 2004 whites exhibit, in general, this wine was very precocious and is delicious to drink now. Very clean and precise, fresh but integrated acidity balanced by a richness and complexity that seems to speak of more lees contact. I got a hint of that hazelnut quality that I associate with Meursault. This has been and continues to be one of the classiest whites we bring in that falls outside of the pantheon of the big three, Chassagne, Puligny and Meursault. Given the prices of these better know appellations, this Saint Aubin is a great value!
Chassagne Montrachet Blanc 2004: A more powerful and concentrated wine than the above, with more pronounced minerality and less floral aromas. Morey’s style is perfectly expressed in 2004. This wine needs some time open to express itself and while the Saint Aubin is somewhat easier to drink at the moment it is clear that the Chassagne has a greater future ahead of it.
Santenay “Comme Dessus” 2004: Even though this is thought of as a relatively rustic appellation, Morey manages to render a very stylish and elegant wine. The aromas are pure light red cherry fruit with a touch of dusty earth in the background. You could sell his red wines on aromatics alone and I often say (political correctness aside) that one could be “AA” and enjoy these wines forever on the bouquet alone. So pretty!
Beaune Rouge 1er Cru “Greves” 2004: One of my very favorite wines in the entire portfolio; every time I visit Morey and taste this bottling my notes include references to pure, crystalline cherry fruit. The wine has far greater density than the Santenay and nothing short of Chambolle can surpass it in its elegance and finesse... this says more about Morey's style than the appellation. The bouquet is darker cherry than the Santenay and has many layers to it, giving a sense of depth and texture even on the nose. Flavors follow through with finer minerality woven throughout. Given 15-30 minutes open it drinks very well. Just gorgeous!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
