Jean Marc Morey Tasting Notes

Following are notes on four J.M. Morey wines tasted this past Saturday at the store...

Saint Aubin Blanc 1er Cru “Charmois” 2004: Given the overall minerality and brightness that the 2004 whites exhibit, in general, this wine was very precocious and is delicious to drink now. Very clean and precise, fresh but integrated acidity balanced by a richness and complexity that seems to speak of more lees contact. I got a hint of that hazelnut quality that I associate with Meursault. This has been and continues to be one of the classiest whites we bring in that falls outside of the pantheon of the big three, Chassagne, Puligny and Meursault. Given the prices of these better know appellations, this Saint Aubin is a great value!

Chassagne Montrachet Blanc 2004: A more powerful and concentrated wine than the above, with more pronounced minerality and less floral aromas. Morey’s style is perfectly expressed in 2004. This wine needs some time open to express itself and while the Saint Aubin is somewhat easier to drink at the moment it is clear that the Chassagne has a greater future ahead of it.

Santenay “Comme Dessus” 2004: Even though this is thought of as a relatively rustic appellation, Morey manages to render a very stylish and elegant wine. The aromas are pure light red cherry fruit with a touch of dusty earth in the background. You could sell his red wines on aromatics alone and I often say (political correctness aside) that one could be “AA” and enjoy these wines forever on the bouquet alone. So pretty!

Beaune Rouge 1er Cru “Greves” 2004: One of my very favorite wines in the entire portfolio; every time I visit Morey and taste this bottling my notes include references to pure, crystalline cherry fruit. The wine has far greater density than the Santenay and nothing short of Chambolle can surpass it in its elegance and finesse... this says more about Morey's style than the appellation. The bouquet is darker cherry than the Santenay and has many layers to it, giving a sense of depth and texture even on the nose. Flavors follow through with finer minerality woven throughout. Given 15-30 minutes open it drinks very well. Just gorgeous!